Appendix 1
EU ECOLABEL TEXTILE RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE LIST
The EU Ecolabel RSL consists of restrictions that apply to the following production stages in the textile supply chain:
fibre and yarn spinning
bleaching and pre-treatment
dye houses
printing processes
finishing processes
all production stages
the final product
A number of restrictions under (g) also apply to the final product, for which analytical testing may be required.
(a) Restrictions applying to fibre and yarn spinning and weaving
Substance group |
Scope of restriction |
Limit values |
Verification requirements |
(i) Sizing preparations applied to fibres and yarns Applicability: Spinning processes |
At least 95 % (by dry weight) of the component substances shall be readily biodegradable. In all cases the sum of each component shall be taken into account. |
Readily biodegradable: 70 % degradation of dissolved organic carbon within 28 days or 60 % of theoretical maximum oxygen depletion or carbon dioxide generation within 28 days. |
Verification: Declaration from the chemical supplier supported by OECD or ISO test results Test method: OECD 301 A, ISO 7827 OECD 301 B, ISO 9439 OECD 301 C, (2) OECD 301 D, ISO 10708 OECD 301 E, OECD 301 F, ISO 9408, |
(ii) Spinning solution additives, spinning additives and preparation agents (including carding oils, spin finishes and lubricants) Applicability: Primary spinning processes |
At least 90 % (by dry weight) of the component substances shall be readily biodegradable, inherently biodegradable or eliminable in waste water treatment plants. In all cases the sum of each component shall be taken into account. |
Readily biodegradable: See definition under (a)(ii) Inherently biodegradable: 70 % degradation of dissolved organic carbon within 28 days or 60 % of theoretical maximum oxygen depletion or carbon dioxide generation within 28 days. Eliminability: 80 % degradation of dissolved organic carbon within 28 days |
Verification: Declaration from chemical supplier supported by OECD or ISO test results Test method: See (a)(ii) for readily biodegradable tests. Inherently biodegradable tests that are accepted: ISO 14593 OECD 302 A, ISO 9887, OECD 302 B, ISO 9888 OECD 302 C, Tests for eliminability: OECD 303A/B ISO 11733 |
(b) Restrictions applying to bleaching
Substance group |
Scope of restriction |
Limit values |
Verification requirements |
Bleaching of yarns, fabrics and end products Applicability: All fibre types |
Chlorine agents shall not be used for the bleaching of any yarns, fabrics, knitted panels or end-products with the exception of man-made cellulose fibres. |
n/a |
Verification: Declaration of non-use by production stage(s) |
(c) Restrictions applying to dye houses
Substance group |
Scope of restriction |
Limit values |
Verification requirements |
(i) Halogenated carriers Applicability: Polyester, polyester-wool blends, acrylic and polyamide where disperse dyes are used. |
Halogenated dyeing accelerants (carriers) shall not be used to dye synthetic fibres and fabrics or polyester-wool blends. Examples of carriers include1,2-dichlorobenzene, 1,2,4-trichlorobenzene, chlorophenoxyethanol. |
n/a |
Verification: Declaration of non-use from the chemical supplier supported by SDS. |
(ii) Azo dyes Applicability: Application of colours from Appendix 2 to acrylic, cotton, polyamide, wool fibres, knits and fabrics. |
Azo dyes shall not be used that may cleave to aromatic amines that are known to be carcinogenic. Appendix 2 contains a list of restricted aryl amines and an indicative list of azo dyes that may cleave to these aryl amines. The latter should be used as a guide to dyes that should not be used. The limit value for aryl amines shall be applied to the final product. |
30 mg/kg for each amine (1) |
Verification: Final product testing to be carried out as specified. Test method: EN 14362-1 and 3. |
(iii) CMR dyes Applicability: All products. |
Dyes shall not be used that are carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic to reproduction. Appendix 2 contains a listing of CMR dyes that shall not be used. |
n/a |
Verification: Declaration of non-use from the chemical supplier supported by SDS. |
(iv) Potentially sensitising dyes Applicability: polyester, — acrylic, — polyamide Elasticated or stretchable skin contact garments or underwear |
Dyes shall not be used that are potentially sensitising. Appendix 2 contains a listing of sensitising dyes that shall not be used. |
Verification: Declaration of non-use from the chemical supplier supported by SDS. |
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(v) Chrome mordant dyes Applicability: Wool, polyamide |
Chrome mordant dyes shall not be used. |
n/a |
Verification: Declaration of non-use from the chemical supplier supported by SDS. |
(vi) Metal complex dyes Applicability: Polyamide, wool, cellulose fibres |
Metal complex dyes based on copper, chrome and nickel shall only be permitted for dyeing: — wool fibres — polyamide fibres — blends of wool and/or polyamide with man-made cellulose fibres. |
n/a |
Verification: Declaration of non-use from the chemical supplier supported by SDS |
(1)
Measures should be taken to avoid false positives from the presence of 4-aminoazobenzene. |
(d) Restrictions applying to printing processes
Printing |
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(i) Dyes and pigments |
Dyes and pigments used to print ecolabelled textiles shall comply with the restrictions applying to dye houses (Section c of this Appendix). |
Please refer to the dye house restrictions (Section c) |
Verification: As specified for dye houses |
(ii) Printing pastes Applicability: Where printing is applied |
Printing pastes used shall not contain more than 5 % Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC's). These may include: — aliphatic hydrocarbons (C10 — C20) — monomers such as acrylates, vinyl acetates, styrene — monomers such as acrylonitrile, acrylamide, butadiene — alcohols, esters, polyols — formaldehyde — phosphoric acid esters — benzene as impurity from upper hydrocarbons — ammonia (e.g., urea decomposition, biuret reaction) |
< 5,0 % w/w VOC content |
Verification: Declaration from applicant that no printing has been made or Declaration from printer supported by SDS and/or calculations for the printing paste. |
(iii) Plastisol binders Applicability: Where printing is applied |
'Plastisol' additives to print binders, including PVC and restricted phthalates, shall not be used. |
n/a |
Verification: Declaration from applicant that no printing has been made or Declaration of non-use from chemical suppliers supported by SDS for additives. |
(e) Restrictions applying to finishing processes
Functional finishes, treatments and additives |
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(i) Biocide finishes used to impart biocidal properties to the final products. Applicability: All products |
Biocidal products (within the meaning of Article 3(1)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 528/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council (1) shall not be incorporated into fibres, fabrics or the final product in order to impart biocidal properties. Common examples include triclosan, nano-silver, zinc organic compounds, tin organic compounds, dichlorophenyl(ester) compounds, benzimidazol derivatives and isothiazolinones. |
n/a |
Verification: Declaration of non-use from the applicant |
(ii) Anti-felting and shrink resistance Applicability: Where applied. |
Halogenated substances or preparations shall only be applied to wool slivers and loose scoured wool. |
n/a |
Verification: Declaration of non-use from wool processors. |
(iii) Water, stain and oil repellent treatments Applicability: Where applied to provide the function. |
Fluorinated water, stain and oil repellent treatments shall not be used. These shall include perfluorinated and polyfluorinated treatments. Non-fluorinated treatments shall be readily and/or ultimately biodegradable, or non-bioaccumulative in the aquatic environment, including in aquatic sediment. They shall additionally comply with fitness for use criterion 25(a). |
n/a |
Verification: Declaration of non-use supported by SDS for the repellents used to be provided by finishers. Test method: n/a |
(iv) Flame retardants Applicability: Where applied and as specified for synergists. |
The following flame retardants shall not be used: HBCDD — Hexabromocyclododecane PeBDE — Pentabromodiphenyl ether OcBDE — Octabromidiphenyl ether DecaBDE — Decabromodiphenyl ether PBBs — Polybrominated biphenyls TEPA — Tris(aziridinyl) phosphinoxide TRIS — Tris (2,3 dibromopropyl) phosphate TCEP — Tris (2,chloroethyl)phosphate Paraffin, C10-C13, chlorinated (SCCP) |
n/a |
Verification: Declaration of non-use supported by SDS |
The synergist antimony trioxide (H351) is derogated for use as a synergist for the backcoating of interior textiles only under the condition that the product is required to be flame retardant and that workplace occupational exposure limit values are met. |
Eight hour mean shift value ELV for 0,50 mg/m3 |
Verification: Monitoring data shall be provided by the finisher where the antimony trioxide is applied. |
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(f) Restrictions applying to all production stages
Substances of Very High Concern (SVHC's) |
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(i) Substances that have been entered onto the ECHA Candidate List. Applicability All products. |
SVHC's that have been identified according to Article 59 of Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 (REACH) as meeting the criteria of Article 57 of that Regulation and are listed in the candidate list for eventual inclusion in Annex XIV of REACH (‘Candidate List’) that is current at the time of application shall not be present in the final product, either or to impart function to the final product or that have been intentionally used during production stages, unless a derogation has been approved. The current Candidate List can be consulted at: http://echa.europa.eu/web/guest/candidate-list-table No derogation from the exclusion in this criterion shall be given concerning substances identified as SVHC's and which have been entered onto the list foreseen in Article 59 of Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006, and which are present in the article or in any homogenous part of it in concentrations of more than 0,10 %. |
n/a |
Verification: Declaration of compliance by each production stage and their chemical suppliers. |
Detergents, surfactants, softeners and complexing agents |
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(ii) All detergents, surfactants, fabric softeners and complexing agents Applicability: All wet processes |
At least 95 % by total weight of all fabric softeners, complexing agents, detergents and surfactants used at each wet processing site shall be: — readily biodegradable under aerobic conditions, or — inherently biodegradable, and/or — eliminable in wastewater treatment plants. The latest revision of the detergents ingredients database should be used as a reference point for biodegradability: http://ec.europa.eu/environment/ecolabel/documents/did_list/didlist_part_a_en.pdf |
n/a |
Verification: Declaration chemical supplier supported by SDS and/or OECD or ISO test results Test method: See sizing and spinning agents (Appendix 1(a) i/ii) |
(iii) Non-ionic and cationic detergents and surfactants Applicability: All wet processes |
Non-ionic and cationic detergents and surfactants used at each wet processing site that are classified as hazardous to the aquatic environment according to Regulation (EC) No 1272/2008 shall be ultimately biodegradable under anaerobic conditions The detergents ingredients database should be used as a reference point for biodegradability: http://ec.europa.eu/environment/ecolabel/documents/did_list/didlist_part_a_en.pdf |
n/a |
Verification: Declaration from SDS and/or chemical supplier supported by OECD or ISO test results Test method: EN ISO 11734, ECETOC No 28 OECD 311 |
Auxilliaries |
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(iv) Auxiliaries used in preparations and formulations. Applicability: All products. |
The following substances shall not be used in any preparations or formulations used for textiles and are subject to limit values for their presence on the final product: Nonylphenol, mixed isomers 4-Nonylphenol 4-Nonylphenol, branched Octylphenol 4-Octylphenol 4-tert-Octylphenol |
25 mg/kg sum total |
Verification: Final product testing Test method: Solvent extraction followed by LCMS |
Alkylphenolethoxylates (APEOs) and their derivatives: Polyoxyethylated octyl phenol Polyoxyethylated nonyl phenol Polyoxyethylated p-nonyl phenol |
Verification: Final product testing Test method: ISO 18254 |
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The following substances shall not be used in any textile preparations or formulations: bis(hydrogenated tallow alkyl) dimethyl ammonium chloride (DTDMAC) distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (DSDMAC) di(hardened tallow) dimethyl ammonium chloride (DHTDMAC) ethylene diamine tetra acetate (EDTA), diethylene triamine penta acetate (DTPA) 4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol 1-Methyl-2-pyrrolidone Nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) |
n/a |
Verification: Declaration of non-use from the chemical suppliers supported by SDS for all production stages. |
(g) Restrictions applying to the final product
(i) Candidate List SVHC's that are derogated. Applicability: Elastane, acrylic |
N,N-Dimethylacetamide (127-19-5) The following limit values apply to end products containing elastane and acrylic: |
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Verification: Final product testing Test method: Solvent extraction, GCMS or LCMS |
— Products for babies and children under 3 years old |
0,001 % w/w |
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— Products that are in direct contact with the skin |
0,005 % w/w |
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— Garments with limited skin contact and interior textiles |
0,005 % w/w |
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(ii) Formaldehyde residues Applicability: All products. Specific conditions apply to garments with easy care finishes (also referred to as non-crease or permanent press) |
The following limit values apply to residual formaldehyde from easy care finishes: |
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Verification: Final product testing for products with an easy care finish. A declaration of non-use is required for all other products. Test method: EN ISO 14184-1 |
— Products for babies and children under 3 years old. |
16 ppm |
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— All products that are in direct contact with the skin |
16 ppm |
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— Garments with limited skin contact and interior textiles |
75 ppm |
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(iii) Biocides used to protect textiles during transportation and storage. Applicability: All products |
Only biocidal products that contain active substances that are approved under Regulation (EC) No 528/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council (1) are permitted for use. Applicants should consult the most current authorisation list: https://echa.europa.eu/web/guest/information-on-chemicals/biocidal-active-substances The following substances are restricted: — Chlorophenols (their salts and esters) — Polychlorinated biphenyls (PCB) — Organotin compounds, including TBT, TPhT, DBT and DOT — Dimethyl fumarate (DMFu) |
n/a |
Verification: Declaration of non-use prior to shipping and storage supported by SDS. |
(iv) Extractable metals Applicability: All products with different limit values applying to babies and children under 3 years old. |
The following limit values apply to products intended for babies and children under 3 years old: |
mg/kg |
Verification: Final product testing Test method: Extraction — EN ISO 105-E04-2013 (Acid sweat solution) Detection — ICP-MS or ICP-OES |
Antimony (Sb) |
30,0 |
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Arsenic (As) |
0,2 |
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Cadmium (Cd) |
0,1 |
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Chromium (Cr) |
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— Textiles dyed with metal complex dyes |
1,0 |
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— All other textiles |
0,5 |
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Cobalt (Co) |
1,0 |
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Copper (Cu) |
25,0 |
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Lead (Pb) |
0,2 |
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Nickel (Ni) |
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— Textiles dyed with metal complex dyes |
1,0 |
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— All other textiles |
0,5 |
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Mercury (Hg) |
0,02 |
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The following limit values apply to all other products including interior textiles: |
mg/kg |
Verification: Final product testing Test method: Extraction — DIN EN ISO 105-E04-2013 (Acid sweat solution) Detection — ICP-MS or ICP-OES |
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Antimony (Sb) |
30,0 |
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Arsenic (As) |
1,0 |
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Cadmium (Cd) |
0,1 |
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Chromium (Cr) |
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— Textiles dyed with metal complex dyes |
2,0 |
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— All other textiles |
1,0 |
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Cobalt (Co) |
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— Textiles dyed with metal complex dyes |
4,0 |
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— All other textiles |
1,0 |
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Copper (Cu) |
50,0 |
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Lead (Pb) |
1,0 |
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Nickel (Ni) |
1,0 |
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Mercury (Hg) |
0,02 |
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(v) Coatings, laminates and membranes Applicability: Where incorporated into textile structure |
Polymers shall not contain the following phthalates: DEHP (Bis-(2-ethylhexyl)-phthalate) BBP (Butylbenzylphthalate) DBP (Dibutylphthalate) DMEP (Bis2-methoxyethyl) phthalate DIBP (Diisobutylphthalat) DIHP (Di-C6-8-branched alkyphthalates) DHNUP (Di-C7-11-branched alkylphthalates) DHP (Di-n-hexylphthalate) |
Sum total 0,10 % w/w |
Verification: Declaration of non-use by polymer manufacturer supported by SDS for the plasticisers used in the formulation. Where the information is not available testing may be requested. Test method: EN ISO 14389 |
Fluoropolymer membranes and laminates may be used for outdoor wear and technical outdoor clothing. They shall not be manufactured using PFOA or any of its higher homologues as defined by the OECD. |
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Verification: Declaration of compliance from the membrane or laminate manufacturer with respect to the polymer production. |
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(vi) Accessories such as buttons, rivets and zips Applicability: Where incorporated into garment structure |
For metal accessories: |
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Verification: Testing of the composition of the metal components. Test methods: For nickel migration EN 12472-2005 EN 1811-1998+A1-2008 For other metals Detection — GC-ICP-MS |
A migration limit shall apply to nickel-containing metal alloys that are in direct and prolonged contact with the skin. |
Nickel 0,5 μg/cm2/week |
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Additionally testing shall be carried out for the presence of the following metals, to which the following limit values shall apply: |
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Lead (Pb), |
90 mg/kg |
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Cadmium (Cd) |
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— products intended for babies and children under 3 years old |
50 mg/kg |
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— all other products including interior textiles |
100 mg/kg |
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Chrome (Cr) where there is chrome plating |
60 mg/kg |
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Mercury (Hg) |
60 mg/kg |
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The following phthalates shall not be used in any plastic accessories: — DEHP (Bis-(2-ethylhexyl)-phthalate) — BBP (Butylbenzylphthalate) — DBP (Dibutylphthalate) — DMEP (Bis2-methoxyethyl) phthalate — DIBP (Diisobutylphthalate) — DIHP (Di-C6-8-branched alkyphthalates) — DHNUP (Di-C7-11-branched alkylphthalates) — DHP (Di-n-hexylphthalate) The following phthalates shall not be used in children's clothing where there is a risk that the accessory may be placed in the mouth e.g. zip handles: — DINP (Di-isononyl phthalate) — DIDP (Di-isodecyl phthalate) — DNOP (Di-n-Octyl phthalate) |
n/a |
Verification: SDS is to be provided for the plastic formulation. |
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