APPENDIX
RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES LIST (RSL)
The list applies to substances that may be used during the production process or may be present in the final product. The EU Ecolabel RSL for Footwear compiles substances or groups of substances whose presence in the final product, materials or articles thereof, or production recipes, as applicable, shall be specifically restricted or verified. The restrictions apply to:
The applicability, material(s) and/or production stage(s) where relevant, scope of restriction, verification and/or testing requirements are specified for each requirement.
The RSL shall be communicated by the applicant to all material suppliers.
Textile products that have been awarded the EU Ecolabel based on the ecological criteria of Decision 2014/350/EU are considered to comply with criterion 6.
Table 1
The following restrictions apply to specified production stages.
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Applicability |
Scope of restriction |
Limit values |
Verification |
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(a) Auxiliaries |
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Any mixture or formulation used in the production stages of leather, textiles, and coated leather and textiles |
The following substances shall not be used in any mixtures or formulations used in production stages and are subject to the limit values for the presence of substances in the final product: — Nonylphenol, mixed isomers CAS No 25154-52-3 — 4-Nonylphenol CAS No 104-40-5 — 4-Nonylphenol, branched CAS No 84852-15-3 — Octylphenol CAS No 27193-28-8 — 4-Octylphenol CAS No 1806-26-4 — 4-tert-Octylphenol CAS No 140-66-9 The following alkylphenolethoxylates (APEOs): — Polyoxyethylated octyl phenol CAS No 9002-93-1 — Polyoxyethylated nonyl phenol CAS No 9016-45-9 — Polyoxyethylated p-nonyl phenol CAS No 26027-38-3 |
25 mg/kg sum total for textiles 100 mg/kg sum total for leather |
Assessment and verification: the applicant or material supplier(s) shall provide either a declaration that these substances have not been used, supported by a Safety Data Sheet or test results of the final product or of the leather, textiles, coated leather or textiles that make up the final product. Test method: leather: EN ISO 18218-2 (indirect method); textiles and coated textiles: EN ISO 18254 for alkylphenolethoxylates; for alkylphenols final product testing is to be carried out by solvent extraction followed by LC-MS or GC-MS. |
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Dyeing and finishing operations for leather, textiles, and coated leather and textiles |
The following substances shall not be used in any mixtures or formulations for dyeing and finishing of leather, coated leather, and textiles: — Bis(hydrogenated tallow alkyl) dimethyl ammonium chloride (DTDMAC) — Distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (DSDMAC) — Di(hardened tallow) dimethyl ammonium chloride (DHTDMAC) — Ethylene diamine tetra acetate (EDTA), — Diethylene triamine pentaacetate (DTPA) — 4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol — Nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) |
n/a |
Assessment and verification: the applicant or material supplier(s) shall provide a declaration of non-use. |
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(b) Colophony |
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Printing, varnishing and gluing |
Colophony shall not be used as an ingredient in printing inks, varnishes or adhesives. |
n/a |
Assessment and verification: the applicant or supplier(s) shall provide a declaration of non-use. |
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(c) Solvents |
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Auxiliaries used in mixtures, formulations and adhesives for leather, textiles coated leather and textiles, plastics and final products |
The following substances shall not be used in any mixtures or formulations for the processing of component materials and in adhesives used during the final product assembly: — 2-Methoxyethanol — N,N-dimethylformamide — 1-Methyl-2-pyrrolidone — Bis(2-methoxyethyl) ether — 4,4′- Diaminodiphenylmethane — 1,2,3-trichloropropane — 1,2-Dichloroethane; ethylene dichloride — 2-Ethoxyethanol — Benzene-1,4-diamine dihydrochloride — Bis(2-methoxyethyl) ether — Formamide — N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone — Trichloroethylene |
n/a |
Assessment and verification: the applicant or material supplier(s) shall provide a declaration of non-use. |
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(d) Chlorinated paraffins |
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All production stages for leather, synthetic rubber, plastics, textiles and coatings |
Short Chain Chlorinated Paraffins (SCCPs), C10-C13, shall not be used in the production and finishing of leather, synthetic rubber, plastics, textiles or coatings. |
Not detectable |
Assessment and verification: the applicant or material supplier(s) shall provide a declaration that Short Chain Chlorinated Paraffins C10-C13 have not been used, supported by a Safety Data Sheet. Otherwise the applicant and/or material supplier(s) shall provide a declaration of compliance supported by the results of a test report according to EN ISO 18219. |
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Material processing for leather, synthetic rubber, plastics, textiles and coatings |
Medium Chain Chlorinated Paraffins (MCCPs), C14-C17, shall be restricted in the production and finishing of leather, synthetic rubber, plastics, textiles or coatings. |
1 000 mg/kg |
Assessment and verification: the applicant or material supplier(s) shall provide a declaration that Medium Chain Chlorinated Paraffins C14-C17 have not been used, supported by a Safety Data Sheet. Otherwise, the applicant and/or material supplier(s) shall provide a declaration of compliance supported by the results of a test report according to EN ISO 18219. |
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(e) Biocidal products (within the meaning of Article 3(1)(a) of Regulation (EU) No 528/2012 of the European Parliament and of the Council (1) |
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Used during transportation or storage of raw and semi-finished materials, final products or final product packaging |
(i) Only the following active substances (within the meaning of Article 3(1)(c) Regulation (EU) No 528/2012 shall be allowed: — active substances included in the list drawn up in accordance with Article 9(2) of Regulation (EU) No 528/2012, for the relevant product type (i.e. fibre, leather, rubber and polymerised materials), provided the conditions or restrictions specified therein are met; — active substances included in Annex I of that Regulation provided the conditions or restrictions specified therein are met; — active substances under examination for the relevant product type in the work programme referred to in Article 89(1) of Regulation (EU) No 528/2012. |
n/a |
Assessment and verification: the applicant and material supplier shall provide either declarations of non-use prior to transportation and storage, or evidence that the use of the biocidal active substance is allowed under Regulation (EU) No 528/2012. If used, a list of active substances added during transportation or storage of raw, semi-finished materials or to final product packaging shall be provided, including the related H statements. |
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(ii) Biocidal products shall not be incorporated into final products or any part thereof during footwear assembly in order to impart biocidal properties to the final product. |
n/a |
Assessment and verification: the applicant and material supplier shall provide declarations of non-use in the final product or any part thereof. |
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(iii) Chlorophenols (their salts and esters), organotin compounds (including TBT, TPhT, DBT and DOT), dimethyl fumarate (DMFu), triclosan and nanosilver shall not be used during the transportation or storage of the product, any article of it and any homogeneous part of it and shall not be incorporated into the final product or product packaging. |
Not detectable |
Assessment and verification: the applicant or material supplier(s) shall provide a declaration of non-use. The declaration shall be supported by the results of final product testing for the presence of the following substances: Chlorophenols: leather, EN ISO 17070; textiles, XP G 08-015 (detection limits: leather: 0,1 ppm; textiles: 0,05 ppm); Dimethyl fumarate: ISO/TS 16186. |
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(f) Other specific substances |
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Production recipes and adhesives used in the final product or any part thereof |
The following substances shall not be intentionally added to any mixtures and formulations or to adhesives used during footwear assembly: — Chlorinated or brominated dioxins or furans — Chlorinated hydrocarbons (1,1,2,2-Tetrachloroethane, Pentachloroethane, 1,1,2-Trichloroethane, 1,1-Dichloroethylene) — Hexachlorocyclohexane — Monomethyldibromo–Diphenylmethane — Monomethyldichloro-Diphenylmethane — Nitrites — Polybrominated Biphenyls (PBB) — Pentabromodiphenyl Ether (PeBDE)) — Octabromodiphenyl Ether (OBDE) — Polychlorinated Biphenyls (PCB) — Polychlorinated Terphenyls (PCT)) — Tri-(2,3-dibromo-propyl)-phosphate (TRIS) — Trimethylphosphate — Tris-(aziridinyl)-phosphinoxide (TEPA) — Tris(2-chloroethyl)-phosphate (TCEP)) — Dimethyl methylphosphonate (DMMP)) |
n/a |
Assessment and verification: the applicant or material supplier(s) shall provide a declaration of non-use. |
Table 2
The following restrictions apply to processes taking place in the dye house.
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Applicability |
Scope of restriction |
Limit values |
Verification |
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(a) Carriers |
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Carriers used in dyeing processes where disperse dyes are used |
Halogenated dyeing accelerants (carriers) shall not be used (examples of carriers include: 1,2-dichlorobenzene, 1,2,4-trichlorobenzene, chlorophenoxyethanol). |
n/a |
Assessment and verification: the applicant or material supplier(s) shall provide a declaration of compliance supported by a Safety Data Sheet. |
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Carriers used as blowing agents for plastics and foams |
Halogenated organic compounds shall not be used as blowing agents or as auxiliary blowing agents. |
n/a |
Assessment and verification: the applicant or material supplier(s) shall provide a declaration of compliance supported by a Safety Data Sheet. |
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(b) Restricted dyes |
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Azo dyes and azo colourants Application in dyeing process |
The following carcinogenic aromatic amines shall not be present in the final product.
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30 mg/kg for each arylamine in the final product |
Assessment and verification: the applicant or material supplier(s) shall provide a declaration of compliance supported by the results of specific testing according to EN 14362-1:2012 and 3:2012 for textiles, and CEN ISO/TS 17234-1 and 2 for leather. (Note: false positives may be possible with respect to the presence of 4-aminoazobenzene, and therefore shall be reported.) |
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CMR dyes |
The following dyes that are carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic to reproduction shall not be used.
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n/a |
Assessment and verification: the applicant or material supplier(s) shall provide a declaration of compliance supported by a Safety Data Sheet. |
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Potentially sensitising dyes |
The following dyes that are potentially sensitising shall not be used.
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n/a |
Assessment and verification: the applicant or material supplier(s) shall provide a declaration of compliance supported by a Safety Data Sheet. |
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Chrome mordant dyes |
Chrome mordant dyes shall not be used. |
n/a |
Assessment and verification: the applicant or material supplier(s) shall provide a declaration of compliance supported by a Safety Data Sheet. |
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Metal complex dyes |
Metal complex dyes based on copper, chromium and nickel shall only be permitted for leather, dyeing wool, polyamide or blends of these fibres with man-made cellulose fibres (for instance viscose). |
n/a |
Assessment and verification: the applicant or material supplier(s) shall provide a declaration of compliance supported by a Safety Data Sheet. |
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Pigments |
Pigments based on cadmium, lead, chromium (VI), mercury and/or antimony shall not be used. |
n/a |
Assessment and verification: the applicant or material supplier(s) shall provide a declaration of compliance supported by a Safety Data Sheet. |
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Table 3
The following restrictions apply to the finishing process of the final product.
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Applicability |
Scope of restriction |
Limit values |
Verification |
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(a) Per- and polyfluorinated chemicals (PFCs) |
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Final product |
(i) Fluorinated water, stain and oil repellent treatments shall not be used for footwear impregnation. These shall include perfluorinated and polyfluorinated treatments. Non-fluorinated treatments shall use substances that are readily biodegradable and non-bioaccumulative substances in the aquatic environment including aquatic sediment. |
n/a |
Assessment and verification: the applicant or material supplier shall provide a declaration of compliance supported by a Safety Data Sheet. |
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Footwear with declared integrated water repellence function |
(ii) Fluoropolymer membranes and laminates may be used for footwear only if the required water penetration of the material is lower than 0,2 g and the water absorption is lower than 30 % according to ISO Standard 20347. Fluoropolymer membranes shall not be manufactured using PFOA or any of its higher homologues as defined by the OECD. |
n/a |
Assessment and verification: the applicant shall provide a declaration of compliance from the membrane or laminate manufacturer with respect to the polymer production. The declaration shall be supported by technical test results for material water penetration according to ISO 20347. |
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(b) Flame retardants |
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Footwear with incorporated flame-retardant function |
The use of flame retardants is allowed only for footwear classified and CE marked as Category III personal protective equipment with an incorporated flame-retardant function to ensure safety at work in line with the specifications laid down by Directive 89/686/EEC. The substance(s) used to achieve flame retardancy shall comply with criterion 5. |
n/a |
Assessment and verification: the applicant shall provide either a declaration of non-use of flame retardants or a declaration of compliance with criterion 5. In both cases the declaration shall be supported by a Safety Data Sheet. When applicable, a list of flame retardants used in the product shall be provided together with the related H statements/R phrases. A copy of the certification issued by a certification body notified under Directive 89/686/EEC that proves the product is marketed as flameproof Category III personal protective equipment shall be provided. |
Table 4
The following restrictions apply to the final product or specified parts thereof.
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Applicability |
Scope of restriction |
Limit values |
Verification |
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(a) PAHs |
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Plastics and synthetic rubber, textiles or leather coatings |
The polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) listed below shall not be present above the specified limits in the plastics, synthetic rubber, textiles or leather coatings. The PAHs classified with Groups 1 and 2 hazards shall not be present at concentrations greater than or equal to individual and sum total concentration limits in plastics, synthetic rubber, textiles or leather coatings. The presence and concentration of the following PAHs shall be verified. PAHs restricted by Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006:
Additional PAHs subject to restriction:
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For all footwear: 1. The individual concentration limits for PAHs restricted under Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 shall be lower than 1 mg/kg. 2. The sum total concentration limit for the 18 PAHs listed shall be lower than 10 mg/kg. For footwear intended for children under three years of age: 1. The individual concentration limits for PAHs restricted under Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 shall be lower than 0,5 mg/kg. 2. The sum total concentration limit for the 18 PAHs listed shall be lower than 1 mg/kg. |
Assessment and verification: the applicant or material supplier(s) shall provide a declaration of compliance supported by the test report, using test method AfPS GS 2014:01 PAK. |
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(b) N-Nitrosamines |
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Natural and synthetic rubber |
The following N-nitrosamines shall not be detected in synthetic and natural rubber.
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Not detectable |
Assessment and verification: the applicant or rubber supplier shall provide a declaration of compliance supported by the test report, using test method EN 12868 or EN 14602. |
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(c) Organotin substances |
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Final product |
The organotin compounds listed below shall not be present in the final product above the specified limit concentrations.
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Limit values specified for each organotin compound |
Assessment and verification: the applicant shall provide a declaration of compliance supported by test results in accordance with test method ISO/TS 16179. |
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(d) Phthalates |
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Plastics, rubber, synthetic materials, coatings and printings of materials |
(i) Only phthalates that at the time of application have been risk-assessed and fulfil the requirements of criterion 5 may be used in the product. |
n/a |
Assessment and verification: the applicant shall provide a declaration of compliance supported by a Safety Data Sheet |
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(ii) The following plasticisers shall not be used in the product, any article of it or in any homogeneous part of it: — 1,2-Benzenedicarboxylic acid, di-C6-8-branched alkyl esters, C7-rich (DIHP) CAS: 71888-89-6 — 1,2-Benzenedicarboxylic acid, di-C7-11-branched and linear alkyl esters ((DHNUP) CAS: 68515-42-4 — Bis(2-methoxyethyl) phthalate (DMEP) CAS: 117-82-8 — Diisobutyl phthalate (DIPB) CAS: 84-69-5 — Bis (2-ethylhexyl) phthalate (DEHP) CAS: 117-81-7 — Dibutyl phthalate (DBP) CAS: 84-74-2 — Benzyl butyl phthalate (BBP) CAS: 85-68-7 — Di-n-pentyl phthalate (DPP) CAS: 131-18-0 — 1,2-Benzenedicarboxylic acid, dipentylester, branched and linear CAS: 84777-06-0 — Diisopentylphthalate (DIPP) CAS: 605-50-5 — Dihexyl phthalate (DnHP) CAS: 84-75-3 — N-pentyl-isopentylphthalate CAS: 607-426-00-1 (iii) The following phthalates shall not be used in footwear for children under three years of age: — Di-iso-nonyl phthalate (DINP)* CAS: 28553-12-0; 68515-48-0 — Di-n-octylphthalate (DNOP)* CAS: 117-84-0 — Diisodecyl phthalate (DIDP)* CAS: 26761-40-0; 68515-49-1 |
The sum of the restricted plasticisers shall be lower than 0,10 % weight by weight; The sum of the restricted plasticisers for footwear intended for children under three years of age shall be lower than 0,05 % weight by weight; |
Assessment and verification: the applicant shall provide either a declaration of non-use from the material manufacturer supported by a Safety Data Sheet for the plasticisers used in the formulation or the test results according to ISO/TS 16181. |
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(e) Extractable metals |
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Final product |
For footwear intended for children under three years of age, the substances listed below shall not be present in the final product above the specified limit concentrations.
The following limit values shall apply to footwear other than footwear intended for children under three years of age.
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Limit values specified for each substance |
Assessment and verification: the applicant or material supplier(s) shall provide a declaration of compliance supported by the test results in accordance with the following test methods: Extraction — EN ISO 105-E04-2013 (acid sweat solution). Detection: EN ISO 17072-1 for leather, ICP-MS, ICP-OES (for textiles and plastic). Testing shall be carried out annually during the licence period in order to demonstrate ongoing compliance with the criterion. |
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Metal components |
The migration of nickel from nickel-containing metal alloys which are in direct and prolonged contact with skin shall be lower than 0,5 μg/cm2/week. |
0,5 μg/cm2/week |
Assessment and verification: the applicant or material supplier(s) shall provide a declaration of the absence of nickel in footwear components, supported by the certification from the manufacturer of the metal parts, or a declaration of compliance supported by the results of test method EN 1811. |
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Chromium-tanned leather |
For shoes containing chromium-tanned leather, there shall be no chromium (VI) in the final product. |
Not detectable |
Assessment and verification: the applicant or material supplier(s) shall provide a declaration of compliance supported by the results of a test report, using test method EN ISO 17075 (detection limit: 3 ppm). The sample preparation must follow the indications of EN ISO 4044. Testing shall be carried out annually during the licence period in order to demonstrate ongoing compliance with the criterion. Non-chromium-tanned leather is exempted from the requirement. |
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For shoes containing chromium-tanned leather, the extractable chromium content in the final product shall be lower than 200 mg/kg. |
200 mg/kg |
Assessment and verification: the applicant or material supplier(s) shall provide a declaration of compliance supported by the results of test report, using test method EN ISO 17072-1. Testing shall be carried out annually during the licence period in order to demonstrate ongoing compliance with the criterion. Non-chromium-tanned leather is exempt from the requirement. |
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(f) TDA and MDA |
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PU |
2,4-Toluenediamine (2,4-TDA, 95-80-7) 4,4′-Diaminodiphenylmethane (4,4′-MDA, 101-77-9) |
Lower than 5 mg/kg each |
Assessment and verification: the applicant shall provide a declaration of compliance supported by the results according to the following procedure: Extraction with 1 % aqueous acetic acid solution. The sample must be a composite of six pieces to be taken from beneath each sample's face (to a maximum of 2 cm from the surface). Four repeat extractions of the same foam sample must be performed, maintaining a sample weight to volume ratio of 1:5 in each case. The extracts are combined, made up to a known volume, filtered and analysed by HPLC-UV or HPLC-MS. If HPLC-UV is performed and interference is suspected, reanalysis with HPLC-MS shall be performed. |
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(g) Formaldehyde |
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Final product/leather, textile |
The amount of free and hydrolysed formaldehyde of the components of the footwear shall not exceed the following limits: — textiles: < 20 mg/kg, — leather: < 20 mg/kg (children's footwear); 75 mg/kg (linings and socks); 100 mg/kg for other parts of the product. |
Specified limit values |
Assessment and verification: the applicant or material supplier(s) shall provide a declaration of compliance supported by the results of a test report, using the following test methods: textiles: EN ISO 14184-1; leather: EN ISO 17226-1. |
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(h) Antimony |
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Raw polyester fibres |
The level of antimony present in the raw polyester fibres shall not exceed 260 ppm. |
260 mg/kg |
Assessment and verification: the applicant or fibre manufacturer shall either provide a declaration of non-use during the manufacturing process or a declaration of compliance supported by a test report using the following test methods: direct determination by Atomic Absorption Spectrometry or Inductively Coupled Plasma (ICP) Mass Spectrometry. The test shall be carried out on a composite sample of raw fibres prior to any wet processing. |
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